On May 1st, Tango and  I begin our travel on the Alaska Marine Highway. I was planning on Alaska the summer after, but I figured out, after two years on the road, that if I can travel extensively in the RV relying only on my regular monthly income, then perhaps I could travel pay-as-I go via other methods. I also discovered, after dashing home last summer to take care of mom, that I can safely store my RV and travel via other methods (that is an interesting story for another day: how, over time, even an RV becomes like a regular home and less like an adventure machine).

Here is the plan: I will drive to Prince Rupert, BC, which is situated at the beginning of the Inside Passage. There, I will pick up the Marine Highway Ferry and travel 14 hours up the coast to Wrangell. After a long stay there, I will continue to travel short segments up the passage and around the main coast all summer. I won’t be planning ahead much more than that, and the only set dates are the May 1st departure date from Prince Rupert and July 11 arrival on Kodiak Island for my birthday.

I will travel on and off the ferry in my little Honda Civic. Pulling a camper on and off the ferry is simply cost prohibitive for me (you pay by the length of your vehicles). For example, for my trip from Homer, AK to Kodiak Island, AK, the ferry fees are: $87 for me and another $200 for the 15 foot Honda. Imagine the vehicle fees for a tow vehicle and a 30 foot RV!!! Another reason for traveling in the Honda: it gets 30 mpg, minimum, which cuts gas costs from NM to the BC coast by 2/3!! Travel in the Honda costs $100 per 1000 miles versus $300 per 1000 miles pulling the camper. Besides, I am mentally ready for a car-camping trip after a long winter with the RV!

Alaska Marine Highway ferry routes

 

Close-up view of the inland passage segment. Prince Rupert, BC, where I pick up the ferry is at the bottom right corner

Questions I have received:

Why go to Alaska in May? Most people go in August.

• May is warmer in the Inside Passage than farther north. By May, I shouldn’t experience anything colder than winter weather in Southern NM.
• More migrating birds and mammals early in the season
• I definitely want to experience Alaska without the hordes of people. I may still be there in August but by then I will have had plenty of peaceful time.
• In addition to the people, August is peak mosquito month and I want some time without the huge mosquito armies.

Why Wrangell, AK for your first stop?

• Wrangell, AK is the subject of John Muir’s book, Travels in Alaska, and I wanted to go there since reading the book.
• Also, Wrangell is not a stop on the cruise ship circuit, so it will more like real-life in Alaska.

How long will you stay in Alaska?

• I honestly don’t know. I have a flexible timeline that takes me through July, but I don’t need to be anywhere until mid-September. I may drive the Al-Can or take the ferry down. Depends on what I feel like at the time. I expect to uncover some cool destinations while I am there and may take off on unplanned side trips.

Where will you stay?

• This is a tent camping trip! I plan to stay in National Forest Campgrounds and a few state recreation areas like I do when traveling in the lower 48.

Aren’t you afraid to camp in grizzly country?

• I know that Grizzlies avoid people unless people wander into their space or leave enticing food for them. Safe bear practices are the key. I will write later about bear strategies.

Any inland trips?

• Depending on the roads, I may temporarily leave the Alaska Marine Highway in Haines and drive around Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. I will also spend about a month in the Kenai Peninsula area, traveling by car.

Goals?

• My main goals: explore the Alaska coast and visit National Parks. My bucket list includes visiting all National Parks, and the Alaska ones are among the few I have not visited.

Why not a side trip to Denali?

• I am planning a second trip to Alaska summer 2019 if all goes well. I will focus on inland and far northern destinations.

What do you expect for the cost of living?

• Camping fees in National Forest campgrounds seem about the same as down here. I looked at the Wrangell IGA grocery store weekly flyer and was pleasantly surprised by the reasonable cost of food in that area. Shop the sales!
• Gas is likely to be higher, but I will not be driving all the time like I do down here.
• The ferry, at least with a small car, is quite affordable.

Gearing up

I love gear, and the trip to Alaska offers me a chance to try some new stuff! Since my car is small, I am traveling light: basic food, shelter, and clothing. I will create a complete gear list later. Here is what I am acquiring so far:

• Larger tent with more rain protection. It also has a screen room in front where I can sit in the evening if skeeters get bad.
• Screen house: safe camping in Grizzly country includes cooking away from the sleeping tent. A screen house will give me a bug-free space to cook in and a second hangout space.
• Some water-wicking sweaters and under-layers
• Lightweight LED lanterns for tent and screen house
• Small point and shoot camera
• Mosquito Netting
• Alaska travel guides
• Fresh first aid stuff
• Unscented shampoo and toiletries (bear strategy)

Things I already own that are packed in the car:

• Little Buddy propane heater
• Cookstoves (one propane, one butane)
• Solar panel
• Sleeping bag, other bedding
• Cooking supplies

I have packed and repacked my car several times already, even though I do not leave NM until early April. So far everything fits perfectly. The area behind the driver’s seat is clear (so I can put the seat down for naps and quick overnights) and the passenger seat is clear for Tango. I am planning a small car camping trip to test out everything. I need to put up the tent and screen house by myself, and I don’t want to do that the first time in a rainstorm in Wrangell.

I am excited about my new adventure. The last year presented many personal challenges, and I have had some health issues in early 2018 which has kept me hunkered down in one place longer than I like. An exotic trip is just the cure for any lingering malaise. And, I will have something to write about once again.

In preparation, I am reading books about Alaska. First up is “Alaska” by Jame Michener. I love his books but am getting depressed as I read the same narrative about European explorers who enslave indigenous people and exploit their resources. Just substitute the names of a geographical region, local resource and native population with another area, resource and people. The story is the same. In this case, Alaskan exploitation began with the triad of Russians /fur-bearing animals/ Aluets and Eskimos.

Ahead, I have more inspiring books written by previous travelers that should keep me motivated. Any suggestions?