Petersberg, AK | Jane's Journals

Wrangell was quiet, even contemplative. In Petersberg, I was busy the whole time, too busy to write, which was a nice change. First and most important, I caught up with my friends Vickie and Jerry, who are about 4 days ahead of me. We only had a couple of days together at the campground but we will meet again in Juneau. We have a great deal in common; besides travel, we share an interest in birds and progressive faith traditions (they are Unitarian Universalists, like my mom).

Anyway, I camped next to them – the most serene and beautiful place I have ever camped. I thought that my perch on Wrangell was the best, then I settled into the little cove on Petersberg, facing east towards the dramatic, snowy, coastal mountains (Green’s Campground, State land). At night, I could see the lights of Wrangell.

This area has 2 low and 2 high tides each day, which seemed to whoosh in and out at great speed. At different tide levels, different ducks and other birds arrive to feed. Close to low tide, Northern Shovelers glide into the cove from the inland creek. At mid-tide, a small flock of acrobatically- gifted Sandpipers fly in with quite a show. Common Mergansers arrive towards high tide. The only constant presence: the ever-present Harlequin Ducks. Eagles fly overhead and perch on a snag in the evening. One flies low and directly overhead from the campsite, perhaps thinking that Tango might be a good meal. I am glad he thought otherwise.

Although the campground had 30 sites, spread out over a 2.0-mile loop road, I never saw more than two other camps set up at one time, and those quite a distance from us.

I liked Petersburg better than Wrangell in one important way: I found more recreation opportunities. The Tongass National Forest no longer maintains a campground but does maintain several hiking trails out near my state-owned campground. I had rain the first day, but the rest of the week was clear and warm! I even went without long underwear for one day. Woo hoo!

Just before I left I saw a black bear crossing the road as I was driving. Locals say that brown bears are not living on the island but they could swim over from other locations! While walking, we saw another porcupine, and deer are everywhere. That is it for the 4-legged creatures. Ducks and birds are the real show around here, at least so far.

I discovered in Southeast Alaska the Muskeg ecosystem. It is essentially a peat/marshy bog area that acts as a giant sponge. If the surrounding forest needs moisture, the Muskeg can let loose some of its stores. While driving through the forest, the terrain suddenly changes from towering mixed conifers growing in a forest swamp or on the hillside to an open, marshy area with stunted Short Pine and sphagnum-forming plants. I took a Ranger-led, interpretive hike through the Muskeg and she had us step off the boardwalk and start jumping. The ground beneath shifted and bounced us around.

I found more than outdoor opps in Petersburg. I timed my trip so that I could attend the Little Norway festival. The people there are mostly of Norwegian descent and during the festival, they show their pride! The town was decorated with both U.S. and Norwegian flags and fur-clad Viking descendents ran loose! It was a typical small town festival with a parade, art booths, food stalls, entertainment and more, spanning 4 days. Tango and I walked everywhere. I also found good coffee and a quaint cafe overlooking the harbor.

About all that sunlight: daylight starts around 4 AM and the light has woken me several times at that early hour. If I awaken at a normal hour, say 7 AM, the sun is nearly overhead already, so the mornings are quite warm. The sun then goes behind the mountain behind me and the temps dip around noon. Then, the sun emerges again to the north of the mountains around dinner time, and the air warms again. As I lay in the tent listening to my audiobook and getting ready to sleep, the sun is still up, probably stays up long after I fall asleep.

Two different stops, two different experiences. I like the variety. The next stop will be different again, in Juneau, the capital of Alaska.

View of our Petersberg campsite, low tide