Ms. Waldo-Willis has made significant progress. But first, that lovely night at Fox Lake, YT. I slept like a baby in the cool air. In the morning, I drove about 20 miles south and joined the Alaska Highway again at Whitehorse. I stopped there for breakfast and to upload the last 3 blog posts, then continued towards Watson Lake.

Watson Lake is a key junction. There you can either continue on the Alaska Highway to its starting point in Dawson Creek, BC or turn south on the Cassiar Highway, which ends up near Prince George, BC. The Cassiar is best for crossing into WA near Seattle, which is what I wanted to do. The Cassair is also an epic drive through the mountains of British Columbia and I wanted more of those mountains (see map below)! This was on the Solstice Eve. As I sat eating a turkey sandwich in Watson Lake, I decided on a whim to drink coffee after dinner and drive all night. The sun would light up the night and I would be able to see for the last time that early morning magic light. Also, I figured that I would see lots of nocturnal wildlife under that midnight sun!

After the coffee, I drove back a few miles to the Cassiar turnoff. At last, I thought. I had been thinking about this segment since I first planned the trip. I turned south at the intersection and drove up to a barricade with a stop sign. A gentleman walked over and said, “Road’s Closed.”

I was speechless, so he continued, “Accident down the Cassiar. Road will be closed until sometime tomorrow.”

I managed a meager, “Really, why?”

“Have to get the Coroner down there. With a fatality, they like to take their time, get all the measurements and evidence.”

We chatted for a short time then I drove back to the intersection. Options? Wait until the road opens or get back on the Alaska Highway and take the long way to Prince George. I pulled out the map and determined that the Alaska Highway route would add about 400 miles. Since my brain was wired on caffeine I knew that I would be up all night anyway and that I could knock out those 400 miles during the night instead of sitting around. I would miss the Cassair but I would drive through the northern rise of the Rocky Mountains along the Liard River. I claim the Rocky Mountains as my home territory and have always wanted to see the most northern point. Zoom, down the Alaska Highway.

What a magical night, one I will never forget. I first drove past rolling hills. Wide swaths of grass lined both sides of the road and there the animals of the north came out to eat and say goodbye. I saw 8 black bears and a grizz mom and her cub. Several bison herds and their babies, the red dogs, hogged the road. After a few hours, the road climbed into the northernmost part of my mountains, and I was in a wonderland. Eventually, in the canyons, I entered more of a twilight, but I could still see everything. In the open meadows where mist hung in the air, I saw ghostly visions of female elk. Sometimes, I saw a dozen or so scattered through the vapor, sometimes just a few. I only saw 1 male!  In all, until I headed up from the valley towards a summit, I saw maybe 100 elk. Oh, and a F—ing Bullwinkle.

The wildlife, the rivers, the canyons. The drive was magnificent and I drove a total of 700 miles that day and night, enjoying my last light night. I stopped in Fort Nelson around 3 AM but was still too wired to sleep. I rested there anyway, and at 5 AM I filled up again on coffee and drove all day again, another 600 miles. I had a few hour-long naps, which were surprisingly refreshing. Anyway, I got to Dawson Creek and all the way past Prince George, where I finally pulled over and slept for 8 hours. As I headed out on the road to Vancouver the next morning, I passed a Walmart and spontaneously ran in for some summer clothes. I have some in the car, buried beneath everything else, but it was not the time to dig them out and temps were climbing already. I also purchased an empty spray bottle. Tango’s fur had completely grown out, which was fine in Alaska, but now he was panting all the time when we drove. I changed my clothes at the next rest area and filled his bottle with water. I sprayed him thoroughly and we took off again. This time, he was quiet and comfortable. I kept the bottle near me and sprayed him on and off all day, and he seemed to love it. I loved being in summer clothes- a gauzy shirt and Capri leggings.

Fast forward: another long day driving. It was only 450 miles, but the road – a main artery – was two-lane and slow going thanks to small towns and construction delays (no Interstates in BC). Also, I drove crazy slow through the Fraser River Valley, a white-knuckle segment that should be named the River Road from Hell Highway. Again, mostly two lanes, winding along a straight drop to the Fraser River, through tunnels and over bridges so narrow it is amazing two vehicles could fit at the same time. Narrow, winding, steep drops. Sound challenging? Add big rigs. Seriously, this is the main route from Vancouver and large trucks travel there as well. This went on for hours before the road dropped into a valley near Vancouver. I turned south before seeing the city and 3 miles later I was at the US border.

This map shows where I was this week: Chicken, Dawson City, Whitehorse, Watson Lake. If I had gone south at Watson Lake I would have been on the Cassiar. Instead, I went on to Dawson Creek, then over to Prince George. The road from Prince George towards Vancouver is not shown.

Back to the border! As always, the cameras took a photo of my rear license plate and sent it to the agent’s computer screen as I pulled up (I know he was looking at the screen because NM does not have front plates). The first thing he asked me, “Where is that license plate from?” I was amused – very few people recognize a NM license plate. I smiled and said, “That is an award-winning license plate from New Mexico. Those are chilies” He smiled a little too, asked a few questions, and waved me through.

I was a few hours too late to pick up my general delivery mail waiting in the border town, Sumas, WA, which meant I needed to spend the night there and hope the PO opened on Saturday. I googled “camping near Sumas” and found a little RV park at the edge of town that allows tent campers. I pulled in and saw a sweet grassy area right across from the showers. I walked Tango, my uncomplaining little traveler who has been in the car with me for endless hours, set up, dug out summer clothes, then stood in the unmetered shower for maybe 10 minutes. What a treat after 6 minute metered showers that cost $4 in some places. Or no shower at all.

So, that is right up to the minute. I am tapping away on the computer while Tango sits on the grass, enjoying life outside the car. A bunny just passed by which gave him all kinds of joy even though he is leashed and cannot chase it. I have mixed feelings about being out of the great north but have not processed anything yet. And the sun is setting. How I will miss those light nights.

I had wondered in my last post how long it would take to get through Canada. If I start counting when I pulled out of Whitehorse (capital of YT and a nice little city), then it took 3 days driving hard (and through the Solstice night).

Now what? Only the AK journey is over. A new adventure starts after I get my mail and do my laundry tomorrow. I am quite close to Mt. Baker National Forest and North Cascades National Park. While my laundry is in the washer I will do some research online and figure out where I will head first. I don’t have far to go before I am back in beautiful mountains once again.

BTW, no freaking mosquitos in Sumas, WA. Amen!