The drive from Pahrump, NV to Death Valley National Park was less than 2 hours. It should have been quicker, but I was buffeted by winds and slowed down to 40 MPH. For once, other drivers did not honk at me out of frustration. Of course, there weren’t too many people out there and those who were driving seemed mellow.
So Death Valley is indeed desolate. Vegetation is sparse to non-existent, and at times I feel as though I am on the moon instead of the earth. Death Valley is hot – the hottest place in the world, a designation earned from having the highest recorded temperature ever, 134 degrees in 1914. Considering this, I feel blessed that, in Oct, the temperatures hover around only 90 degrees. It is also the driest place in the US, with 2 inches or less of rain per year and 15% or less humidity. Death Valley is also the lowest point in the U.S. The campground is at -179 feet; the lowest point is -278 feet below sea level.
The geography is an odd collection of formations I have seen in other places – including Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone and the South Dakota Badlands. I also have an overwhelming feeling that I am looking at mine tailings, but the formations are natural, partially due to the abundance of borax minerals.
I am camped out in Sunset Campground, in the Furnace Creek area (well-named considering the heat). In addition to the endless sunshine, one of the draws for winter travelers like me is the $7/night senior rate. Social interaction is also a draw thanks to several large rallies, or gatherings, early in the winter season. I am meeting up with a group of single RVers who then meets up in early November with the 49ers, a talented group that reenacts life in a gold mining town. They wear costumes, do demos, and play music. Anyone in the campground can attend for a $35 fee. I talked to the camp host and he told me they will draw people from all over and will fill both the campground and the overflow area.
Below: photos I found online
However, I am here a week before the single RVers gather and two weeks before the 49ers start. I wanted to check out the area and see if I like it (it is growing on me). I know of one person from the single RV group who is here now but I never met him before and have no idea what his rig looks like. I have his phone number and will call if I ever find cell service. The irony! He is probably a few rows away from me but I won’t be able to call until I drive 60 miles back to town for groceries! In the meantime, I am enjoying the quiet. My goal for this time is to do some writing and reading about writing, which takes a quiet setting without a lot of distractions. That would be Death Valley, for sure!
Furnace Creek is also home to an inn and the visitor center. Outside the campground, palm trees planted years ago made a little oasis in the desert. The campground, across the street from the oasis, is essentially a huge parking lot that can accommodate 270 RVs. It is a winter favorite for snowbirds, although this weekend I am also seeing families and young people who are tent camping.
As for the setting, my first impression is not great. This is not what I consider an especially beautiful location. To the north and south, the view is of the endless camping rows and then a rocky terrain. To the east, the landscape is full of formations that look like mine tailings, although they just natural land formations. The best view is to the west, over the palm tree oasis, toward a scenic mountain. To be honest, I had to fight the urge to flee back to my cooler and cozier roost in Pahrump the first day, but I seem to be settling in for now. Death Valley won’t ever be on my Top Ten List of place to visit (maybe not even the Top Fifty), but it’s a new adventure and that is good enough for me! Unless I see any horrid bugs. I already met the ugly, giant fly who lives here. He has is black with a white shield on his back. When I first pulled in he landed on my upper arm and took a bite.
Despite the sparse setting, the campground has some serious amenities for dry camping (no hookups). The campground has several clean and modern bathrooms. Also, I found shaded sink stations with long, stainless sinks and nice faucets. There I can wash dishes and rinse my clothes from the day before, which will reduce my need for a laundromat. I discovered that in the afternoon the water in those faucets is warmed from the strong sunlight, and , I wash my hair there as well. Other amenities in the campground: potable water, ample garbage dumpsters, a dump station, and plenty of sunshine to help my solar charger quickly top off my RV batteries. The long rows are also a great place to walk with Tango. We should get in several miles each day, early and late!
Before I picked a site, I drove through the campground several times, assessing how and when the sun would hit the RV. I looked at other RVs and noticed that, at 1 PM, some RVs had more shade than others. I picked a site angled like their’s and am very happy with the orientation of the RV. So far, the temperature/sun pattern seem bearable.
The first evening, I drove over to the little oasis across the street and found a so-called General Store. It is part of a fancy inn complex. I found outrageously priced souvenirs and some basic overpriced groceries. The bread was $6/loaf, sandwiches, $10, cheese, $12. I saw a 6-pack of beer for $20. I don’t need a thing, I was just looking around the area, although I did buy a bag of reasonably priced Flaming Hot Cheeto’s for 2.29. That was dinner the first night because it was too hot and I was too fried to cook.
The next morning, Tango and I drove across the street again to check out the visitor center. I went right at 8 AM when they opened since Tango would have to wait in the van and temps were still cool. I didn’t watch the movies or read the displays closely. I decided to save those things for another morning when I wanted something to do. The Visitor Center is one of the few things to do away from camp, so I am rationing its offerings! This time I picked up maps and talked to the ranger. I learned that there are quite a few easy, interpretive trails off main roads where there will be other people. I plan to wait for others before I do the more extensive hikes. This is not an area where I want to hike alone.
So, that’s the news. Not much going on but I have lots of reading and writing time! I had time to catch up on some blog posts that were rattling around in my mind. Next time, you will see my thoughts about my recent DNA test results. Turns out I have 1% Native American DNA, something that has given me much to think about!
